Dressing 18th Century Style: French National Clothing

I know that this topic will probably raise eyebrows because we all normally think of 18th century women's clothing as being in the darker shades of browns, blues, greens, and reds. . .most without much ornamentation. . .nothing that stands out too much. . .

I don't think that's totally true. . .When it come to French National clothing, I found some pretty bright, bold colors and patterns. . .

 

Bright greens and blues, purples, reds, yellows, pinks. . .What happy colors. . .

The truth is, no one really knows exactly what colors and styles were worn here in Ste. Genevieve. . .although there are a few descriptions of the general impression of dress in journals and reports. . .Most of our concepts are based on the paintings and sketches of Canadian New France, where many of the residents came from. . .However, not all. . .There were those who did come directly from France, and other countries, bringing the clothing of their province along with them. . .

Another thought concerning the bright colors and patterns is that no one in Louisiane was allowed to make cloth. . .They were to buy their cloth or" ready-mades" from the King's warehouse. . .which would possibly mean it was the same cloth, colors, and patterns worn in France or later possibly in Spain. . .By the latter 18th century, trade goods from as far as China would have stocked the King's warehouse, also. . .

The point being. . .don't be afraid of color when you plan your own 18th century costume. . .and don't be afraid to mix together colors that look odd to us today. . .Remember. . .it was a different time from our own. . .The French were a fun-loving people whom I am sure were never afraid to wear colors that stood out. . .

For more sketches and reading, go to:

 French National Costumes

John's French Colonial Journals

Photo Compliments of Sassasfras Creek Originals

L'Ecole du Soldat (School of the Soldier) begins today. And John has crafted some of his 18th-19th century French Colonial Journals that will be for sale at Sassafras Creek Originals.

"Beautiful leather journals hand made right here in Ste. Gen by John Holt. They come with a hand cut quill and the quill is stamped in French. They make a great gift for that hard to buy for person. One of the journals is a wine journal. “A votre sante!” (SCO Facebook)

These are great for anyone who likes to journal or keep notes. It's made of tri-fold heavy leather. There's an inside pocket for extra papers, and a hard back journal or tablet for your notes. I decided to try something new with the quill, stamping a choice of  "Le Journal"--"Mes Notes"--and "Journal du Vin" (Wine Journal) on the feather. The journals are priced between $12-$18, depending on the size. 

Photo from Milice de Sainte Famille Facebook Page

The Milice de Sainte Famille (the Holy Family Militia) was setting up for the big weekend Friday, readying for the big event today. This morning there will be informative lectures at the Great River Road Welcome Center, and the encampment will be open. At 2:00 there will be a colonial auction that is well worth attending. It's fun and the items are superior. 

For the entire schedule, Click Here

See you there. . .

Dressing 18th Century Style: Now At Sassafras Creek Originals

Pockets

Just in time for School of the Soldier this weekend in Ste. Genevieve, Sassasfras Creek Originals will be carrying a few items for the 18th century lady made by my very own hands. I have quite a stack of goods that I've stitched along the way, simply because I enjoy making them. Pockets are my favorite and I always seem to have one in the making.

"In the 18th century, women's gowns did not have sewn-in pockets, probably because pockets filled with personal belongings would have ruined the lines of full, floating skirts. Instead, women carried small items in separate, commodious bags tied around their waists beneath their skirts or aprons. Some pockets came in pairs, worn on each side over the hips; others were singles." Historic Threads 

Aprons, Scarves, & Shawls

Aprons are a must for any 18th century costume. I have dozens for myself because I like to layer them and I have found that I can change the look of my costume by changing the apron. . .It's also true of scarves and shawls. . .

Most aprons in the 18th Century were practical while some were intended to be simply fashionable. Practical aprons were made of washable fabric, gathered on a narrow tape, and tied around the waist. Fashionable aprons were decorative, and were not intended to get really dirty.

There will be Chatelaines available to buy, too. They are often worn by 18th and 19th century reenactors. From ancient times, waist-hung attachment were worn as part of the costume. It was in the Renaissance that women referred to them as Chatelaines, or keepers of the keys. They wore castle keys at their waist from a belt called a girdle. From this came the name Chatelaine to describe early waist-hung clasps displaying keys, knives, purses, fans, mirrors and pomanders.

Sassafras Creek Originals is a unique shop at 311 St. Mary's Road in Ste. Genevieve, Mo that offers early American home decor and gifts. It has been a favorite place for anything colonial--from game boards to tavern signs to woven coverlets. Now Kandye will be gradually expanding her goods to include some 18th century style clothing, both French and English. We both hope that not only reenactors will be pleased with her goods, but those locally will begin to dress in costume to help promote the French cultural heritage of our town.

Dressing 18th Century Style: Just In From Virginia

Photo by Sassafras Creek

"It’s been a busy morning already on this beautiful day before Easter Sunday! First I had some guests drop by from Williamsburg, VA. Mr. John is a merchant with a warehouse and store accompanied by his lovely wife Mrs. Dru. They are seeking a Spanish land grant to escape the tyranny of British taxes in the colony of Virginia. I hope they stay!" Kandye @ Sassafras Creek Originals

John and I had a wonderful time yesterday, playing the part of the Holts, seeking land in the Spanish Territory and touring the fair town of Ste. Genevieve. We visited some of the shops and purchased a few wares. . .We dropped in on the Felix Vallee State Park. . .and New France Museum. . .We walked around town and greeted visitors. . .even had a few photos made. . .Wish more of the locals would do the same. . .for we had a great time of it. . .

John's clothing is typical of a gentleman and merchant of 18th century Virginia. A white shirt and cravat, a brocade waistcoat, dark breeches with drop front, stockings, leather buckle shoes. His tailored frock coat was custom made for him in England, so the details are authentic to the British subjects. His hat, of course, is a tricorn, trimmed in gold braid and a large black cockade.

I am dressed more in the New France fashion, with a screen-printed style skirt (that I probably bought upon arrival to Ste. Genevieve), blue print short gown, pinner apron with a light weight scarf tucked in the front. Stockings of green plaid and leather clogs, a cap and stylish hat. The ribbons of the hat are tied at the back of my neck.

I have mentioned before that my ancestors came to Spanish Territory from Virginia and Kentucky. They very well could have dressed in this fashion for their travel. . .or day wear while visiting the Menards at Kaskaskia. . .

Who will we be next? You'll just have to wait and see. . .(grin)

Easter Blessings from Heil House

Easter weekend will be an exciting one for us. . .Weather permitting, John and I will be in costume for the first time this year in Downtown Historic Ste. Genevieve. . .We have shopping to do. . .a special luncheon. . .a stroll around town. . .visiting with friends and neighbors. . .And, of course, Sunday will be filled with church services and masses. . .followed by a big Easter dinner. . .and an egg hunt. . .

We are counting our Blessings. . .

Hoping your Easter weekend will be just as Wonderful. . .

 

Dressing 18th Century: Pioneer/Civilized Tribe

 

Although New France is the focus of the Ste. Genevieve area, there are groups of people who were not French or Creole living in the area during the last half of the 18th century. My own family arrived from Virginia by way of Kentucky about 1790, receiving Spanish land grants. The Ruddells were true pioneers and connected to the militia, always at the front of new settlements. Mixed in with their English/Irish blood, a few were of some Native American descent also, possibly Shawnee or Cherokee. 

I enjoy dressing in the clothing that a pioneer part-Cherokee woman might have worn. They were of the civilized tribes and many dressed as the pioneers, with a few distinctions. In order to be somewhat accurate, when we traveled to Oklahoma one year to visit the Cherokee nation, I sketched some of the clothing. Above you see one of my favorites that I will be wearing in the future on the streets of Ste. Genevieve, as a part-Native American visiting the town for supplies to take back to New Madrid county, where my ancestors lived. I have found evidence that some of the Ruddells frequented Kaskaskia and visited with the Menards, so the concept is not far-fetched, although their clothing would have been of a higher class.

The pieces of my clothing are pretty basic for the pioneer: shift (chemise) underneath all, a pocket, short gown (top), petticoats (skirts), aprons with no pockets, long stockings, leather shoes (often moccasins). Accessories include: a leather chatelaine, sheathed knife, and a salt horn hanging from the waist (but not seen here); woven scarf; cap, straw hat. The sunglasses are reproduction 18th century. **

It was not unusual at all for the ladies to wear several layers of clothing, especially when traveling. Often they wore every piece they owned. To protect the nicer pieces, the older ones were worn on top, as above. The tiered petticoats and the aprons are layered in this manner. The blue print petticoat is of finer quality, as is the check apron. The coarsely woven apron is patched and has several small holes in it from cooking over the open fire. The short gown is of a print that might appeal to the Native American, in colors of brown, beige, and rust. There is a mix of colors and textures. The pioneers wore what they had and did not try to match their colors as we do today.

Over the years I have found that when it comes to dressing in costume there are a few points that are very important. The fabrics should be of natural fibers (cotton, linen, wool). They should look well-worn, since most received daily wear. Always accessorize with items matching the person being reenacted.  Freshly starched and pressed is good but the clothing should have the impression of wear. 

This is one of my favorite photos of John. It's hard to believe he has no Native American blood in him and no family tradition of it (as in my case).  He, too, is portraying a mix of English and Cherokee. His blue check shirt is accessorized with a sheathed knife, a woven sash tied at the waist. Around his neck are 18th century reproduction glasses. His felt hat is cocked on one side in militia style in order not to interfere in firing his musket.  While traveling, he carries two powder horns and hunting bag (not shown).

If you will develop a good eye for elements that are basic to the 18th century, you can often find pieces in thrift stores that can be altered or adjusted to fit the look you want to convey. It's always fun to go through your own wardrobe also. Become familiar with the fabrics appropriate for the times also and look for fabrics to make your own costumes. In the coming posts, I will describe how to sew some simple French colonial pieces. They will be fast and easy. . .for sure. . .

**Please note: These costumes are based on our understanding of the clothing during the time period. We believe that people thought of dressing as they do today--influenced by individual tastes of fashion, the accessibility of materials, and cost of the items. Individualizing your 18th century style makes for a more authentic reenactment.

l'Ecole du Soldat (School of the Soldier)

Our introduction to the School of the Soldier began last year in 2018. We didn't know exactly what to expect as we traveled to Ste. Genevieve on a beautiful Spring weekend. This was to be a couple of days focusing on the French Colonial history, of which we knew little. Would the lectures be interesting? Should we wear costumes? If so, what was the clothing of the Colonial French?  Would the encampment give us insights into the history and life activities of the 18th century in the Mississippi Valley and Illinois country? Would the reenactors speak French? We didn't know but were certainly excited to find out. My own ancestors lived in the area before the Louisiana Purchase. I was anxious to discover how they lived among the French.

The Milice de Sainte Famille from Cahokia, Ill and the Great River Road Welcome Center team up each year to present two days of French Colonial activities. Since the theme was one of 18th century soldiers coming together for instruction and military based events, I thought the weekend would be more interesting to John that myself, but I was pleasantly surprised at two things: The lectures were not only about military campaigns (which, by-the-way, I did enjoy), but included much about the French culture also, giving me much insight as to what my ancestors discovered upon their arrival.

Second, if one was not interested in hearing the presentations, the military encampment at Moses Austin Park, just down from the Welcome Center, had many activities that could involve the entire family. As the men readied themselves for battle, the ladies carried on domestic life and presented demonstrations such as natural dying.

And, the costumes! I am very familiar with the English clothing of the 18th century, but had never seen the Colonial French other than a few references in books and sites online. While similar to the English in some ways, there were also differences. Each of the reenactors looked as if he or she had stepped out of the 18th century. Everywhere I turned, there was more inspiration for our future costumes. The reenactors weren't cookie cutter duplicates of each other either. They each took on a persona and their costumes showed it.  Books are fine but seeing the clothing up close was much more rewarding.

On Saturday afternoon, the auction took place. While working at Colonial Williamsburg, John and I did 18th century auctions at the Market Square, so we knew we were headed for a great time and maybe be able to acquire a few items for our collections. We weren't disappointed. I have never had so much fun! The auctioneers were a riot. The items were well-crafted and great finds. Yes, we came away with a few of them.

I do realize this post is written from a woman's point of view, so don't get me wrong. The days are packed with activities for the entire family.

This year, the l'Ecole du Soldat will be on April 27 and 28. It begins at the Welcome Center on North Main Street and will focus on events immediately following the French and Indian War. The encampment will also be set up and ready for viewing each day. Best of all, it's Free. Here's the schedule:

Saturday, April 27 at the Welcome Center on South Main Street:

9:00   "Pontiac's Rebellion" by Tim Todish

9:45   "The Osage Nation and Spanish St. Louis by historian Mike Dickey

10:45  "The Latrine Hat" shared by fiber artist Deb Camron

11:00  Round Table Discussion

12:30  Lunch Break

2:00    The Auction

Sunday, April 28 at the Encampment:

10:00   "What's in My Pocket" by Philippe Robert Hamil

I do hope more will attend, especially those like ourselves who want to learn about the French Colonial culture. The Milice de Sainte Famille do a wonderful presentation of the area's heritage.  Costumes are not required but always welcomed.

See you there. . .

and watch for future posts for costume inspiration. . .