It's FAT TUESDAY. . .

FAT TUESDAY. . .The French call it MARDI GRAS. . .and here I am, living in the French colonial town of Ste. Genevieve, the oldest permanent French settlement in Missouri. . .So, my natural curiosity wanted to dig deeper into it's history. . .I knew that Mardi Gras was one of the largest celebrations during the year in New Orleans. . .Although I have visited New Orleans many times, it's never been during Mardi Gras. . .The stories I've heard. . .

But, back to the history. . .

With a little research, I found that Fat Tuesday is the traditional name for the day before Ash Wednesday (the first day of Lent) in the Western Christian churches, including the Roman Catholic Church and Protestant churches. In the Protestant church I attended growing up, we were often told that Fat Tuesday was the last big party before Lent began on Ash Wednesday. . .and that Lent was a time we could observe or not, by giving up a favorite food. . .It was considered more Catholic in origin and we knew little about it. We had several Catholic friends, who did observe Lent, and I always admired their dedication.

However, in centuries past, the fast for Lent required Christians of every faith to abstain from all meat and food that came from animals, such as milk, cheese, butter, eggs and animal fats. These items had to be cleared entirely from the home. Nothing could remain of these foods, so on the day before Ash Wednesday, numerous meat dishes, rich breads and desserts became the last feast before the days of Lent, leading to Easter. Eat, drink, and make merry. For obvious reasons, the day became known as FAT TUESDAY. . .or MARDI GRAS for the French.

While not observed nationally throughout the United States, a number of traditionally ethnic French cities and regions in the country have notable celebrations. The festival season varies. Some traditions such as the one in New Orleans, Louisiana consider Mardi Gras to stretch the entire period from Twelfth Night to Ash Wednesday. This is the case in Soulard, an historic neighborhood in St. Louis, Missouri, also. Others treat the final three-day period before Ash Wednesday as the Mardi Gras. In Mobile, Alabama, Mardi Gras-associated social events begin in November, with mystic society balls on Thanksgiving and New Year's Eve, followed by parades and balls in January and February, celebrating up to midnight before Ash Wednesday.

The festive "official" purple, green, and gold of the masks, banners, and decorations that adorn buildings are symbolic, derived from a theatrical costume made for a Shakespearean play, Richard III and worn in the 1872 parade in New Orleans. The clothing included a purple velvet cloak with green rhinestones and a golden sceptor and crown. Today these colors are still used--the purple symbolizing justice, the green for faith, and gold for power.

Alas, there are no such parades or official town-wide celebrations in Ste. Genevieve for Fat Tuesday. I have been told that years ago there were and it was a grand event. Smaller celebrations and parties exist now, including the Queen's Ball on the first weekend in February this year and many stores decorate their windows with a Mardi Gras theme and carry items to buy. I, for one, hope that there will be more celebrations in the future in which the general public and visitors can participate.

In the meantime, I'll have a little celebration of my own today. . .and maybe next year attend a Mardi Gras in Louisiana, where they sure know how to throw a party! I remember some of them well. . .(grin). . .

HAPPY MARDI GRAS, YA'LL

Bonne Annee--A Few French Heritage Customs for the New Year

Another year is almost over, and so are our present day holidays. Not so for the Canadian French of the past centuries. . .They celebrated the Twelve Days of Christmas, beginning Christmas Day with parties, feasts and joyous occasions. . .New Year's Day fell within these celebrations, beginning the year with much cheer and friendship.

"What Christmas Day has come to mean to us nowadays, New Year's Day meant to the Creoles," wrote Baudier. Visits were made, gifts were exchanged, toys and presents were given to the children, and greetings and good wishes were the order of the day.

Heads of families and older persons stayed at home on New Year's to receive the constant stream of visitors who came to (souhaiter la bonne annee) wish a Happy New Year. The calls began shortly before noon and continued until near sundown. An unwritten law demanded that the old folks be visited; that children extend good wishes to parrain et marraine; and that especially good friends be remembered.

Baudier remembered that "the big round table was all set out in the finest damask tablecloth, and on it were crystal dishes filled with (dragees), bonbons and other candies, glace fruit, assorted cakes and carafes filled with sweet wine or cordials and bottles of cognac, Benedictine, Chartreuse and other liqueurs. The wine and cordials were for the women, while the stronger drinks were for the men visitors. Whiskey was rarely served."

It was a great day for the children because of the gifts and money they received, but the gifts (etrennes) came with a price. They had to recite greetings or little poems in French or play something on the piano. For this they were given a silver coin (25 or 50 cents) but alas, when they came home, Mamma made them put part of their loot in their (tirelire) little bank.

Finally, after dark there was a sumptuous family dinner. It was a great and glorious holiday especially for the cook who went home late, but laded down with (restants) leavings." Source Unknown-A copied page given to me years ago.

New Year's Eve was marked by La Guignolee or La Guiannee singers. It is a French medieval   tradition related to poor people being able to ask the more wealthy for food and drink at the celebrations of winter. Customarily a troupe of traveling male singers went from door to door to entertain and ring in the new year, disguised in costumes. Hosts were expected to give them food and drink. Other sources say the young men were seeking donations for Twelfth Night. Begun as a way for the poor to be given gratuities by the rich, it also became a community social event for young men to visit with the families of young women.

Translation of the words of the traditional song, La Guignolée:

Good evening master and mistress,

And all who live with you.

For the first day of the year,

You owe us La Guignolee. 

If you have nothing to give,

A chine of meat or so will do.

A chine of meat is not a big thing, 

Only ninety feet long. 

Again, we don't ask for very much,

Only the oldest daughter of the house.

We will give her lots of good cheer,

And we will surely warm her feet.

Now, we greet you,

And beg you to forgive us please.

If we have acted a little crazy,

We meant it in good fun.

Another time we'll surely be careful

To know when we must come back here again. 

Let us dance La Guenille,

--La Guenille, La Guenille!

(We attended La Guignolee for the first time in 2018. 
 Click Here for the story and photos.)

I have only recently started to research the Colonial French customs, but my New Year's resolution is to learn more. . .It's such a fascinating culture. . .In fact, I have found an entire book just on La Guignolee! I have my work cut out for me. . .but. . .it will be a pleasurable task, for I do love colonial history--French or English.

Bonne Annee

(Happy New Year) 

A French Heritage Dinner And Recipes

Taking my queue from the article French Heritage Recipes From Ste. Genevieve, I decided we would break somewhat from our traditional turkey and dressing for a meal from the influence of the Colonial French on the Missouri foodways. By the time my family of Ruddells/Ruddles began to arrive in Spanish (but populated by mostly the Colonial French) Territory during the 1790s, there was a melting pot of the French, Spanish, African American, and Native American cuisine, as well as their own Virginia-North Carolina-Tennessee-Kentucky dishes. French families, originally from French Canada and France itself, were my family's neighbors in New Madrid County where they finally settled. Two of my fourth great aunts married French Canadian men. Francois Jarvais or Gervais married Fanny Ruddle. Hyacinthe Gayon married Elizabeth Ruddle. So, my family would have been familiar with Creole foods. By this time, boatloads of grains, mostly wheat and corn, were taken down the Mississippi River to New Orleans. In fact, the Spanish Territory of the present-day state of Missouri was known as the bread basket for New Orleans and European countries. My ancestral cousin, George Ruddell, built a water mill on the Pemiscon River and shipped the milled grain to New Orleans on a regular basis. There was much traffic on the Mississippi from New Orleans, providing supplies such as rice and spices that were not available in the New Madrid area. I like to think the Ruddells might themselves visit New Orleans on occasion but I have no documentation of it.

Thinking about my family and now having a home in the heart of Ste. Genevieve, I decided I'd pull out a few of those family recipes that were similar to the ones in the French Heritage article.

 The Menu

Chicken Bouillon 

Smoked Turkey and Sausage with Ham Jambalaya

Christmas Relish (I like it on the Jambalaya)

Sweet Potato Casserole

Corn Pudding 
Cabbage

Venison Summer Sausage

Cheese 
Garlic Bread

For dessert, Great Grandmother's Fruit Cake for John

A poached pear with toasted, buttered pecans for myself 

I followed the Chicken Bouillon recipe on the Heritage Post, which is the same as my chicken stock recipe.

The Smoked Turkey and Sausage with Ham Jambalaya is my Chicken and Ham Jambalaya recipe but I substituted smoked turkey for the chicken.

Jambalaya is one famous dish with Spanish roots, as well as Creole. It is said that saffron could not easily be found or imported to make paella, so tomatoes and then later Caribbean spices were incorporated into the dish. Traditionally it is made with meats, vegetables, spices, stock and rice. Jambalaya has many varieties including Creole or “red” jambalaya, found in and around New Orleans, and rural or “brown” jambalaya. My recipe would be considered a Creole jambalaya because of the addition of tomatoes. It is a recipe given to me years ago while visiting New Orleans.

Smoked Turkey and Sausage with Ham Jambalaya

2 medium onions, chopped

2 stalks celery, chopped

2 green peppers, chopped

2 large carrots, chopped

1/4 cup butter

1/2 lb smoked sausage

2-3 cups smoked turkey

1 cup ham, chopped

2-3 cups tomatoes

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 bay leaves

1 tsp thyme

1/2-1 tsp chili powder

Salt, Pepper, Cayenne Pepper to taste

(Creoles-and I- like lots of Cayenne)

1 quart chicken or turkey broth

1 1/2 cup (1 cup-see note below) washed long grain rice

Brown first four ingredients in the butter. 

Add meats and brown slightly.

Add tomatoes and cook 5 minutes.

Add herbs and spices, broth, and rice.

Boil one hour or until rice is tender.

Taste after one half hour. Add more salt, pepper, 

cayenne pepper thyme or chili powder to taste.

Note: John likes his rice to soak up all the liquid, 

becoming almost dressing-like.

If you prefer your Jambalaya stew-like,

reduce the rice or increase the liquid

 

Serve with Christmas Relish (optional). For recipe, Click Here
 

Sweet potatoes were introduced to the Creole foods by the African Americans. They were close in flavor and texture to the yams of their native Africa. Sweet potatoes were considered a vegetable primarily grown and eaten in the South until recently, when people all over the country discovered what we have always known. They are healthy and always delicious.

For our Christmas dinner, it was a "no-brainer"--Mom's Sweet Potato Casserole. Christmas just was not Christmas without it, and that included this one.

Sweet Potato Casserole ready for the oven. . .

Mom's Sweet Potato Casserole 

4 large Sweet Potatoes
3/4 cup Sugar
1 tsp. Salt
Pecans, chopped
Coconut
Miniature Marshmallows 
(optional)
3/4 cup Butter

Bake or boil sweet potatoes. Remove skins. Mix with an electric mixer the potatoes, sugar, and salt. Do not clean beaters. The sweet potato fibers will remain on them. 
Spread in a casserole dish. Top with pecans, coconut, and optional marshmallows. (I don't use them.) Melt butter and pour over all. Bake at 350 degrees until it is hot and bubbly.

The recipe for Goli-she-was, found in the French Heritage article, are traditional Indian corn cakes. For our corn dish, I chose to make a corn spoon bread. Easy and quick and really delicious. You'll find the recipe for Corn Spoon Bread Here. . .

The early French included Blood Sausage for Le Reveillon. I had originally planned to substitute Oberle's Summer Sausage-locally made and a favorite. Then a good Arkansas friend sent us his own Venison Sausage. He knows how much I love it! There was no doubt it would find its way to our Christmas table. . .And with it, some Cheese. . .and Arkansas Wine. . .

From: Grandmother Magers

Great Grandmother Elizabeth Ruddle's Fruit Cake recipe dates back at least a hundred and fifty years. It is sweetened with sugar and molasses, along with the candied fruit and raisins. Nuts, whiskey, and spices add more flavor. Then it is glazed with more whiskey. It is a dark, dense cake and more English than French, which is why I won't include the recipe here. John wants it every Christmas since I first baked it for him. Sometimes I think it was Great Grandmother's Fruit Cake that won him over.

I took one more idea from the Ste. Genevieve French. The foods of Le Reveillon were left on the table for everyone to continue to eat until the dishes were empty. We decided to do the same.  I left the bouillon warming on the stove and the other foods available for snacking throughout the day and evening. We ate way too much, but enjoyed every bite.

Next year. . .Gumbo?
 

Bonne Annee
(Happy New Year)

Le Reveillon: Customs For an Early French Christmas

For me, the highlight of the Christmas Season in Ste. Genevieve is Le Reveillon at the Felix Valle State Historic Site on Merchant and Second Streets. Traditionally, Le Reveillon is celebrated during the early hours of Christmas Day after Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. It begins Le Temps de Fete, the Time of Festivals. 

Le Reveillon is presently celebrated at the Felix Valle home in conjunction with the downtown Holiday Christmas Festival. This year it was on December 7, from 2:00-6:00. The free, open house celebration included music, food, customs, and decorations of an early 1800’s French Christmas. 

The participants were dressed in costumes. . .

Christmas carols were beautifully played by Rick Thum and his wife on hammered dulcimers. . .

In another corner of the living room, Deb Cambron demonstrated yarn spinning. . .

And the dining table was laid with traditional Colonial French Reveillon fare of meats, vegetables and les Treize Desserts de Noël, the thirteen desserts of Christmas.  There were slices of the Buche de Noel and cookies for the many visitors who passed through the house during the day.  

As the sun set late in the afternoon, candles were lit in the windows, casting a glow throughout the rooms, while the hammered dulcimers continued to play.  It was a joyous occasion. We visited at least three times in between Christmas concerts at the Catholic Church and a lecture on Colonial French and German Christmas customs by Bob Mueller. 

Bob Mueller and John discuss the day's activities.

Here's more history of the Reveillon celebration, provided by Donna Rausch, Natural Resource Manager at the Felix Valle. It is taken from a booklet written for the State Historic Site. (Thanks so much, Donna!)

 LE REVEILLON AT THE FELIX VALLE HOUSE STATE HISTORIC SITE

Customs and Recipes for an Early French Christmas

Early French households in Ste. Genevieve celebrated Christmas in a time-honored tradition, which focused on religion. Families gathered at midnight on Christmas Eve and walked together to church to celebrate la messe de minuit, midnight mass. Henry Marie Brackenridge, a young visitor to Ste. Genevieve in the late 1700s described his experience:

“At Christmas eve it was the custom to keep the church open all night, and at midnight to say mass. On this occasion, I found myself alone for nearly an hour before that time, seated on a high chair or stool, with a cross in my hand, in front of the altar, which was splendidly decorated, and lighted with the largest wax candles the village could afford.”

After mass, families gathered at the home of the family patriarch to begin the next part of the Christmas celebration, le reveillon. “Reveiller” in French means, “to awaken”, and le reveillon was the beginning of the celebration of the holiday in the home. The feast prepared for le reveillon was epic in proportion and contained typical everyday favorites, as well as once-a-year delicacies. Tables in Ste. Genevieve certainly offered a roast goose or turkey, bouillon (served traditionally as clear broth with the vegetables served separately), breads, wine, cheeses, blood sausage, and certain preserved fruits and vegetables. Steamboat traffic in the 1820s made delicacies from markets in New Orleans and the East coast available in Ste. Genevieve and without doubt added to the reveillon fare. 

No reveillon table in a French home could be complete without the crowning glory of thirteen desserts. This traditional number was said to represent Christ and the twelve Apostles. 

As Christmas arrives this year at the Felix Valle House in Ste. Genevieve, preparations are taking place as they did in the early 1800s. Candles are counted, coin silver spoons are polished, linens are starched, and the scent of pine fills the parlor. Enticing smells have been drifting from the kitchen, which has been busy for days. Le Reveillon is ready for another year, beginning the celebration of a wonderful, early French Christmas. 

 

Apples and communion wafers hung from a decorated chandelier are symbolic reminders of the religious holiday. The apples represent man’s downfall, while the wafers represent man’s redemption.

Christmas trees would have been unknown in early French households in Ste. Genevieve. 

French children placed their sabots, wooden shoes, on the hearth hoping that le petit Noel would fill them with nuts and sweets. Santa or Papa Noel comes on a donkey. 

(The carrots are for the donkey)

Santons de Provence from definingfrance.com

The creche would have been the focus of attention in the home. Small, painted clay figures, santons, surrounded the creche and represented the peasants of the French countryside witnessing the miracle. 

In the formal dining room, the tables were set with food for the celebration, the center of which were the thirteen desserts. . .

*Buche de Noel  The Yule log is part of many Christmas traditions around the world. This fanciful, rolled cake made to look like a log is surely the highlight of a reveillon table.

*Pain d’epice or Gingerbread Cookies The flavorful French gingerbread is well-suited for cut or molded cookies.

*Pralines are associated with the South, especially New Orleans.

*Gateau de Sirop  (Cane Syrup Cake) A Distinctly flavored cake with origins in Louisiana, where sugar cane is grown and cane syrup is still produced.

*Tarte aux Pommes (Apple Pie) This old-style tarte is thin and combines a cooked apple base with a sliced apple top. 

*French Sugar Cookies

*Pecan or Walnut Tarts

*French Pound Cake

*Pain d’epice as a Spice Cake

*Gateau Saint-Honore (Crown of Honor) named for the patron saint of bakers and pastry chefs. A ring of filled miniature cream puffs arranged around a pastry ring filled with a fruit and vanilla cream. (Filled with Bavarian cream at the Felix Valle.)

*Croquembouche literally translated means “crunch in the mouth.” The classic croquembouche recipe is  made of cream puffs, filled with vanilla pastry cream "glued" together in a pyramid or tree shape with caramel and decorated with spun sugar.

*Croquignoles -This old-style doughnut is rolled, cut, and twisted, then deep-fried to a golden brown. Like a cruller, they are great for dunking.

*Madeleines Marcel Proust made these delightful “little cakes” famous in French literature. They are still made today by bakers in Commercy, France.

(A plate of Nuts, usually Pecans or Walnuts, is often one of the desserts. Old pecan trees in Ste. Genevieve still offer a fantastic fall harvest.)

Also on the Reveillon table: 

*Bread and Wine

*Cheese

*Sausages

*Turkey
*Vegetables
*Tourtiere or Meat pies, which were traditional reveillon fare in many French-Canadian homes. Most of Ste. Genevieve’s inhabitants came from Quebec to the Mississippi River Valley in the mid-18^th century.  Ste. Genevieve’s tourtiere combines beef and pork for a hearty dish, hot or cold.

I will share a few of the recipes at a later date.

If you’ve never attended Le Reveillon, mark your calendars for next year’s celebration. The Holiday Christmas Festival is always the first full weekend of December in downtown Ste. Genevieve. It’s an amazing day, filled with a Christmas parade, musical concerts at the local churches, lighting of the Christmas tree, a live Nativity, and numerous other events. Of course, there is shopping and sight-seeing too. I promise it will be a wonderful beginning of your Christmas celebrations.

Joyous Noel. . .