Dressing 18th Century: Pioneer/Civilized Tribe

 

Although New France is the focus of the Ste. Genevieve area, there are groups of people who were not French or Creole living in the area during the last half of the 18th century. My own family arrived from Virginia by way of Kentucky about 1790, receiving Spanish land grants. The Ruddells were true pioneers and connected to the militia, always at the front of new settlements. Mixed in with their English/Irish blood, a few were of some Native American descent also, possibly Shawnee or Cherokee. 

I enjoy dressing in the clothing that a pioneer part-Cherokee woman might have worn. They were of the civilized tribes and many dressed as the pioneers, with a few distinctions. In order to be somewhat accurate, when we traveled to Oklahoma one year to visit the Cherokee nation, I sketched some of the clothing. Above you see one of my favorites that I will be wearing in the future on the streets of Ste. Genevieve, as a part-Native American visiting the town for supplies to take back to New Madrid county, where my ancestors lived. I have found evidence that some of the Ruddells frequented Kaskaskia and visited with the Menards, so the concept is not far-fetched, although their clothing would have been of a higher class.

The pieces of my clothing are pretty basic for the pioneer: shift (chemise) underneath all, a pocket, short gown (top), petticoats (skirts), aprons with no pockets, long stockings, leather shoes (often moccasins). Accessories include: a leather chatelaine, sheathed knife, and a salt horn hanging from the waist (but not seen here); woven scarf; cap, straw hat. The sunglasses are reproduction 18th century. **

It was not unusual at all for the ladies to wear several layers of clothing, especially when traveling. Often they wore every piece they owned. To protect the nicer pieces, the older ones were worn on top, as above. The tiered petticoats and the aprons are layered in this manner. The blue print petticoat is of finer quality, as is the check apron. The coarsely woven apron is patched and has several small holes in it from cooking over the open fire. The short gown is of a print that might appeal to the Native American, in colors of brown, beige, and rust. There is a mix of colors and textures. The pioneers wore what they had and did not try to match their colors as we do today.

Over the years I have found that when it comes to dressing in costume there are a few points that are very important. The fabrics should be of natural fibers (cotton, linen, wool). They should look well-worn, since most received daily wear. Always accessorize with items matching the person being reenacted.  Freshly starched and pressed is good but the clothing should have the impression of wear. 

This is one of my favorite photos of John. It's hard to believe he has no Native American blood in him and no family tradition of it (as in my case).  He, too, is portraying a mix of English and Cherokee. His blue check shirt is accessorized with a sheathed knife, a woven sash tied at the waist. Around his neck are 18th century reproduction glasses. His felt hat is cocked on one side in militia style in order not to interfere in firing his musket.  While traveling, he carries two powder horns and hunting bag (not shown).

If you will develop a good eye for elements that are basic to the 18th century, you can often find pieces in thrift stores that can be altered or adjusted to fit the look you want to convey. It's always fun to go through your own wardrobe also. Become familiar with the fabrics appropriate for the times also and look for fabrics to make your own costumes. In the coming posts, I will describe how to sew some simple French colonial pieces. They will be fast and easy. . .for sure. . .

**Please note: These costumes are based on our understanding of the clothing during the time period. We believe that people thought of dressing as they do today--influenced by individual tastes of fashion, the accessibility of materials, and cost of the items. Individualizing your 18th century style makes for a more authentic reenactment.