The really great thing about Ste. Genevieve is that being founded in the 1700s, there are so many opportunities to interpret numerous eras. . .and more reason to expand my costume wardrobe for period dressing. . .There's nothing I love more than to get out the patterns and start sketching.
Since log cabin on St. Mary's Road is nearing completion, I've been thinking more about what the 1850s pioneer woman might have worn. I remembered taking photos of a dress at the Homeplace in Kentucky. . .where pioneer life is carried on everyday among the log houses and log barns. . .The digital camera I had at the time doesn't do them justice, so the colors of lavender are a little off. . .but I loved the dress and the details so decided to share them with you anyway.
An everyday work dress such as this had to be functional and comfortable. . .The daily chores of a pioneer housewife were many--from toting water from the well to cooking over a hot stove to weeding a garden and milking the cow-just to name a few. . .This was no place for a corset either. . .I like that. . .
Small printed fabrics such as this were typical of the era. . .This dress is a one-piece with round pearl-like buttons down the front. . .Wooden buttons or flat pearl buttons could have been used also. . .Notice the piping at the waist and sleeve. . .The details make it stand out and more historically correct.
Love this little cap sleeve that adds interest to the dress. . .with piping again. . .
The biggest difference in the 19th century dresses from today's versions is the way they were gathered. . .This was also true in the 18th century, as well as the early 20th century. . .The gathering is done in uniform accordion pleats. . .with two rows of stitching to draw them up. . .In fact, my Grandmother was born in 1896 and was still using this technique at times when she stitched her own dresses. . .She particularly liked the pleats at the cuff. . .
The skirt top is turned down two or three inches so that each pleat is doubled fabric. . .A modern serger was used to finish the raw edges on this one. . .I am not so much a purist that I wouldn't use one myself. . .as long as it didn't show on the outside. . .
To add the pleated skirt, only one side of a standing pleat is slip-stitched to the bottom edge of the finished bodice. . .Notice the pleats "sticking out" on the underside in the photo above. . .This is typical. . .Pleats were not to be flattened but to remain in the accordion shape. . .
The piping on the bodice helps hide any stray stitches. . .and is a wonderful detail as well. . .and it's the details that count. . .I do hope that this winter I will be stitching my own 1850s style dress. . .I have some printed lavender yardage much like this. . .if I can just remember where I last saw it. . .
