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A Chemise, or Shift, Under All Layers |
Layers, layers, layers. . .That’s what it takes to interpret
the clothing of the working class. . .While I am not a stickler to 100% authenticity, there are certain guidelines
that should be addressed if a person wishes to display a visual language to the
18th century onlookers. . .It is a facet of interpreting any century
that will be much appreciated by those who want to see history come alive.
For years I visited Colonial Williamsburg, knowing that what
I saw there. . .be it clothing. . .wares. . .or buildings. . .I could depend on
the fact that it was as authentic as possible in our era of time. . . Then a
dream came true and I found myself employed there. My greatest joy was being
able to dress in authentic reproductions of 18th century English
colony clothing. I appreciated even more the hard work that the Costume Design
Center went to in order to provide period clothing that was as accurate as
possible and still be worn each day by the interpreters. Their standards of
appearance were well set. Many did not like having to measure up to those
standards each day, but I knew that when I was a visitor, it made all the
difference.
“Visitors to Colonial Williamsburg receive a lasting and
important visual image of life in Colonial America from the clothing worn by
our employees. Costumes represent period clothing. When worn correctly, the
costume is an important interpretive tool helping to convey an accurate picture
of the eighteenth century. Therefore, employees must pay particular attention
to the regulations concerning the proper way to appear in costume before the
public.” Standards of Appearance, Costume Design Center
While I worked in the Mary Dickinson shop (based on that of a
milliner’s establishment) I learned a few of the ways that research was done on
the period clothing. Art of the 18th century played a huge part in
their decisions. What better way than studying the paintings and prints of the
18th century to base a costume on? It’s true that they didn’t get it
totally right in the beginning, when there wasn’t enough time to do extensive
research, but throughout the years, better choices have been made. The research
is on-going to this day. As more is learned, changes are made.
So when I decided to study and make period clothing
that might have been worn in New France, I began looking at French art and
sketches of the people who worked and lived here. There isn’t a lot to go on,
so it has taken much time with only a little insight. I have found some
striking lap-overs between the French and English dress, but there seems to be
a few distinctions, too. The English working class stuck closer to subdued
colors, often weaving and dying their own cloth. While the higher class of the
British colonies did wear fine silks that were bright and exciting, the common
woman rarely had this choice. On the other hand, the French loved color in
bright prints and stripes in every class, often combining different prints
together. The ladies of New France were not allowed to weave their own cloth.
It had to come from the King’s storehouses, thus offering a better fabric from many parts of the world to
the working woman. Blues, yellow or golds, reds
seem to be popular and suitable for short gowns, jackets and petticoats. Older women
wore more subdued colors but the prints available for them were in the same
style. Stripes, in a ticking type of weave, were also popular paired with the
prints.
Petticoats (skirts) were shorter than the English and shoes
were often Indian moccasins instead of stiff leather shoes. Aprons might be of white
muslin but more often than not, they were of checks or stripes in various
colors. Under it all, the chemise (shift as the English call it) was worn. The French
corset was the same as the English stays,
just a different word. A cap might be
worn on her head, but often a blue (most popular) scarf was tied over the hair bandana
style. I have noticed that in some sketches, when a cap is worn, a ribbon of
blue (most popular) might be tied around it. Nothing that I have found about
their clothing is the least bit somber.
I’ve included a few of the sketches that I found for a
visual view of the French clothing probably suitable as period clothing of those living west of the
Mississippi River in the 18th century. The people of New France enjoyed Life and they let
their clothing speak of their happy-go-lucky attitude with their clothing. . .just as interpreters of the time period will
hopefully do in this present day.
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